M8031 ding dong circuit diagram

This electronic circuit diagram is a ding-dong sound effect generator electronic device based on the M8031 circuit designed using CMOS technology.
The circuit M8031 has a built-in RC oscillator and digital envelope circuits that make it to require few external components . The sound generated by the M8031 simulate an mechanical ding-dong sound. The M8031 operates from a low input voltage from 1.3 to 3.3 volts requiring low current . The integrated circuit is ideal for door bell application.

Door bell circuit using NE555

Description.The main part of this doorbell circuit are two NE555 timer ICs. When someone presses switch S1 momentarily ,the loud speaker sounds a bell tone as long as the time period of the monostable multivibrator built around IC1.When the switch S1 pressed, IC1 is triggered at its pin 2 and output pin 3 goes high for a time period previously set by the values of POT R4 and POT R5.When the output ofIC1 goes high it resets IC2 and it starts to oscillate to make a bell sound through the speaker. The IC2 is configured as an astable multivibrator whose oscillation frequency can be varied with the help of POT R5.By adjusting the values of R4 & R5, modifications on the tone are possible.

Circuit diagram with Parts list.

   Notes.

• The circuit has to assembled on a good quality PCB or common board.

• The IC1 & IC2 has to be mounted on IC holders.

• Power the circuit from a 9V battery or 9V DC power supply.

• Switch S1 is push button switch.

Water Level Alert

This circuit will emit an intermittent beep (or will flash a LED) when the water contained into a recipient has reached the desired level. It should be mounted on top of the recipient (e.g. a plastic tank) by means of two crocodile clips, acting also as probes. If a deeper sensing level is needed, the clips can be extended by means of two pieces of stiff wire (see pictures).

Circuit operation:

IC1, a 555 CMos timer chip, is wired as an astable multivibrator whose operating frequency is set by C1, R1 and R2, plus the resistance presented by water across the probes. If the resistance across the probes is zero (i.e. probes shorted), the output frequency will be about 3Hz and the sounder will beep (or the LED will flash) about three times per second. As water usually presents a certain amount of resistance, the actual oscillation frequency will be lower: less than one beep/flash per second. As probes will be increasingly immersed in water, the resistance across them will decrease and the oscillation frequency of IC1 will increase.

This means that a rough aural or visual indication of the level reached by water will be available. If a LED is chosen as the alert, C2, D1 and D2 must be added to the circuit in order to double the output voltage, thus allowing proper LED operation (see the rightmost part of the schematics). Interesting features of this circuit are 1.5V supply and ultra-low current consumption: 40µA in stand-by and 0.5mA in operation. This allows a single AAA alkaline cell to last several years and the saving of the power on/off switch.

Pictures of the project:

Circuit diagram:

Parts:

R1 = 1K - 1/4W Resistor
R2 = 100K - 1/4W Resistor (See Notes)
C1 = 2.2uF-50V Electrolytic Capacitor
C2 = 220µF - 25V Electrolytic Capacitor (See Notes)
D1 = 5 or 10mm. Ultra-bright red LED (See Notes)
D2 = 1N5819 - 40V 1A Schottky-barrier Diode (See Notes)
IC = 7555 or TS555CN CMos Timer IC
BZ = Piezo sounder (incorporating 3KHz oscillator)
B1 = 1.5V Battery (AAA or AA cell etc.)
Two small crocodile clips
Two pieces of stiff wire of suitable length
Battery socket, etc.

Notes:

• If a LED alert is needed instead of the beeper, R2 value must be changed to 10K, the Piezo sounder can be omitted and D1, D2 and C2 must be added, as shown in the rightmost part of the schematics.
• A common red LED can be used for D1, but ultra-bright types are preferred.
• Any Schottky-barrier type diode can be used in place of the 1N5819, e.g. the BAT46, rated @ 100V 150mA.
• Wipe the probes regularly to avoid excessive resistance variations due to partial oxidization.

Electronic Cricket Match Game

This electronic cricket is a present for Kids. This simple battery powered circuit can be used to play Cricket Match with your friends. Each LED in the circuit indicates various status of the cricket match like Sixer, Run out, Catch etc. The Circuit uses two ICs ,one in the Astable mode and the second in the display driver mode. IC1 is wired as an Astable Multivibrator with the timing elements R1, R2 and C1. With the shown values of these components very fast output pulses are generated from the Astable.

Output from IC1 passes into the input of IC2 which is the popular Johnson Decade counter CD4017. It has 10 outputs. Of these 8 outputs are used. Output 9 ( pin9) is tied to the reset pin 15 to repeat the cycle. When the input pin 14 of IC2 gets low to high pluses, its output turns high one by one. Resistor R3 keeps the input of IC2 low in stand by state to avoid false indications.

When the Push Switch S1 is pressed momentarily, the Astable operates and all the LEDs run very fast sequentially. When S1 is released, any one of the LED stands lit which indicates the status of the match. For example, if LED D7 remains lit, it indicates Sixer and if LED 8 remains lit, it indicates Catch out. Label each LED for its status as shown in the diagram. Pressing of S1 simulates Bowling and Running LEDs indicates running of Batsman.

Mains Powered White LED Lamp

Did it ever occur to you that an array of white LEDs can be used as a small lamp for the living room? If not, read on. LED lamps are available ready-made, look exactly the same as standard halogen lamps and can be fitted in a standard 230-V light fitting. We opened one, and as expected, a capacitor has been used to drop the voltage from 230 V to the voltage suitable for the LEDs. This method is cheaper and smaller compared to using a transformer. The lamp uses only 1 watt and therefore also gives off less light than, say, a 20 W halogen lamp. The light is also somewhat bluer. The circuit operates in the following manner: C1 behaves as a voltage dropping ‘resistor’ and ensures that the current is not too high (about 12 mA).

The bridge rectifier turns the AC voltage into a DC voltage. LEDs can only operate from a DC voltage. They will even fail when the negative voltage is greater then 5 V. The electrolytic capacitor has a double function: it ensures that there is sufficient voltage to light the LEDs when the mains voltage is less than the forward voltage of the LEDs and it takes care of the inrush current peak that occurs when the mains is switched on. This current pulse could otherwise damage the LEDs. Then there is the 560-ohm resistor, it ensures that the current through the LED is more constant and therefore the light output is more uniform.

There is a voltage drop of 6.7 V across the 560-Ω resistor, that is, 12 mA flows through the LEDs. This is a safe value. The total voltage drop across the LEDs is therefore 15 LEDs times 3 V or about 45 V. The voltage across the electrolytic capacitor is a little more than 52V. To understand how C1 functions, we can calculate the impedance (that is, resistance to AC voltage) as follows: 1/(2π·f·C), or: 1/ (2·3.14·50·220·10-9)= 14k4. When we multiply this with 12 mA, we get a voltage drop across the capacitor of 173 V. This works quite well, since the 173-V capacitor voltage plus the 52-V LED voltage equals 225 V. Close enough to the mains voltage, which is officially 230 V.

Mains Powered White LED Lamp Circuit Diagram

Moreover, the latter calculation is not very accurate because the mains voltage is in practice not quite sinusoidal. Furthermore, the mains voltage from which 50-V DC has been removed is far from sinusoidal. Finally, if you need lots of white LEDs then it is worth considering buying one of these lamps and smashing the bulb with a hammer (with a cloth or bag around the bulb to prevent flying glass!) and salvaging the LEDs from it. This can be much cheaper than buying individual LEDs…

PC Heat Monitor

The PC processor generates very high temperature during its operation which is dissipated by the large heat sink placed above the processor. If the heat sink assembly is not tight with the processor or the cooling fan is not working, PC enters into the Thermal shutdown mode and will not boot up. If the PC is not entering into thermal shutdown, the high temperature can destroy the processor. This simple circuit can be placed inside the PC to monitor the temperature near the processor. It gives warning beeps when the temperature near the heat sink increases abnormally. This helps to shutdown the PC immediately before it enters into Thermal shutdown.

The circuit uses a Piezo element (one used in Buzzer) as the heat sensor. The piezo crystals reorient when subjected to heat or mechanical stress and generates about one volt through the Direct piezoelectric property. IC1 is designed as a voltage sensor with both the inputs tied through the capacitor C1.The non inverting input is connected to the ground through R1 to keep the output low in the standby state. The inputs of IC1 are very sensitive and even a minute change in voltage level will change the output state.

In the standby mode, both the inputs of IC1 are balanced so that output remains low. When the Piezo element accepts heat, it generates a minute voltage which will upset the input balance and output swings high. This triggers LED and Buzzer. Capacitor C2 gives a short lag before the buzzer beeps to avoid false triggering. Warning beep continues till the piezo element cools.

Note: Enclose the circuit inside the PC with the piezo element close to the heat sink of the processor. Adjust the distance between the piezo element and heat sink so as to keep the circuit standby in the normal condition. The piezo element can sense a 10 degree rise in temperature from a distance of 5 cms. Power to the circuit can be tapped from the 12 volt line of SMPS.